April 2017


Is your jeep using too much oil?

Is your jeep using too much oil?

 

Ever so often there is a complaint that a vehicle is suddenly using too much oil.  Apparently,  it isn’t leaking out of the case or getting past the piston rings.  A little detective work will sometimes show that the missing oil is passing through a cracked diaphragm on the windshield wiper booster pump, and going into the intake manifold.  That’s one way of oiling the valve stems but at the same time it isn’t doing the carburetor adjustment a bit of good.  Any kind of an air leak in the intake system places the carburetor behind the eight ball and should be attended to before giving the carburetor a bad name.

But let us suppose that the linkage is all tight in the joints, all flanges have good snug gaskets, the automatic choke is functioning correctly, the vacuum diaphragms in the distributor automatic advance and windshield booster pump are not leaking, and that everything we’ve mentioned so far is just as it should be. Yet there can be be something that will give the carburetor all the symptoms of a sick headache. You’ve guessed! The exhaust system!

Information is from the trouble shooting series – Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 1 and Volume 2.  The books are available form Amazon.com and other fine booksellers.

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Waterproofing the WW2 jeep is not for the faint of heart of foolhardy.

Waterproofing the WW2 jeep is not for the faint of heart of foolhardy.

The kit contains items that are crazy to use by today’s standards–complete with asbestos goop to seal joints from water leaks.

WW 2 jeep water proofing kit.

During WW2, waterproofing kits were developed in order to allow the jeep (Willys MB/FordGPW) to make the transition from ship to shore without stalling out in the water. This was not considered a permanent installation but rather a temporary fix. In fact, the kit was designed to only be operational for eight minutes (!) to a depth of only three feet for transport vehicles. The kit was to be removed once the vehicle was ashore. The jeep required kit number WV-6 which was later known as G9-5700769. This kit wss actually for several vehicles ranging from the 1/4-ton to 2 1/2-ton trucks. The kits were packed five to a box.

 

 

above, air intake hose for carburetor and vent for distributor

 

 

So you spend $25,000 to restore your jeep and then you install a WW2 waterproofing kit? I’m thinking maybe not! What a mess this stuff makes of the engine bay and all for (have I said this already?) three minutes and three feet!

 

 

The completed jeep, ready to go through three feet of water for eight minutes…assuming all intructions were followed and the kit was installed correctly!

 

Detailed installation instructions are contained in TM 9-2853, Preparation of Ordnance Materiel for Deep Water Fording, 7 July 1945. So by the time this manual was issued, D-Day was over over a year in the past and the war in Europe had been over for about two months. This manual was for the war with Japan, expected to take a huge invasion force, starting in November 1945.

 

 

Rainhats for jeeps? Are you crazy?

Rain hats for jeeps? Are you crazy?

sparkhat2

Rain-hats for jeep spark-plugs. It was all the rage.

Dear Editor,
We’ve had trouble with the rubber insulator caps that fit over the spark-plugs on the older ¼-ton 4×4’s. The top of the cap deteriorates with age and causes the lower part to crack. We haven’t been able to get replacements, so we’ve hit upon this idea for lengthening the life of the caps.
Put a small, flat washer on the top and bottom of the cap (see Fig.). Press the edges of the crack together and tighten the top of the sparkplug down against the washers.
Of course, this can only be done on the older models, since the newer ones don’t have spark plugs with removable caps, and the sparkplug-wire terminal simply snaps into the electrodes.

Cpl H. F. Eaton
Troop A, 29th Cav.

(WW2 Ed. Note—The reason you can’t get replacements is because spark- plug insulator caps have never been stocked.)

From the Army Motors Vol 4, Page 84.

You also might be interested in this.  Do you have children or grandchildren?  Take a look at my new book entitled, Grandpa’s War Pony. The story was written to explain the WW2 jeep to children. The pictures are colorized to delight kids of all ages.

polarize2For the younger set, no I’m not talking about some dangerous doings in Poland. Jill, the Army Mechanic says, don’t forget to polarize when you hook up your generator and voltage regulator. Failure to do so may lead to damage of either unit (or both)!   What the heck is “polarize” anyway?   Sounds like something you do to get ready to go to either the North or South poles.   Old timers know all about this…trouble is the old timers are dying off.  Good thing they left behind some great old books from WW2 to help us out.

 

polarize

Use a jumper wire.

Polarity. Whenever generator or regulator wires have been disconnected, the generator should be polarized after the units have been reconnected and before the engine is started. If this procedure is not followed, the generator or control box may be severely damaged.

To polarize the generator, place one end of a jumper wire firmly against the armature terminal on the control box and then touch the other end momentarily to the battery terminal of the control box (see drawing above). This sends a surge of battery current through the generator and automatically gives the generator the correct polarity for the battery it is to charge.

As was pointed out to me by Geoff Bull from the G503, the diagram on the right represents the standard jeep voltage regulator and other war-time MVs. The one on left is for other war-time MVs and apparently post-war CJs. The important facts are to verify the markings on your regulator and momentarily touch a wire from “A” (hold on “A”) to “B” (touch wire to terminal). Not all regulators are the same.

The above information was edited from AUTOMOTIVE TROUBLE SHOOTING For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles,Volume 1 edited by Robert Notman.

You gotta have the right tool!

You gotta have the right tool! Sometimes that’s a book!

Don’t be late to the picnic because you didn’t know how to work on your vehicle!

 

Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Vehicles, Volume 1  by The Ordnance School Spring is here! It’s time to dust off the old vehicles and get them in running order.

Synopsis:
Automotive Trouble Shooting For World War Two Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 1, is a useful manual for anyone. Do you know what to do when the cranking motor will not crank the engine? Engine fails to start? No spark? Misfiring at high speeds or under full load? Problems with your battery or battery cables? Do you know how to adjust your breaker points? Inspect the coil? Do you know how to polarize the generator? Use a jump wire to test your main light switch? Adjust your headlights? Trouble shoot your carburetor or fuel pump? All these and much more are covered. Put a copy in your truck for those little roadside emergencies!

 

Do you have something other than a star?

A gal likes to look good in her jeep, sometimes a t-shirt is the best option!

1941 Bantam BRC Women's Dark T-Shirt
Color: Violet
Black Red Caribbean Blue Violet
1941 Bantam BRC Women’s Dark T-ShirtWear a representation of the 1941 Bantam BRC, the first 1/4-ton used by the Army during WW2 in four great colors.

Order by calling TOLL FREE (US) 877.809.1659 and giving the operator the product number below or by clicking on the link to order online.
Availability: In Stock.

Product Number: 109561963

Product Information
Fit: StandardStandard FitNot too tight, not too loose.

Fabric Thickness:

Our 100% cotton women’s tee is preshrunk, durable and guaranteed.

  • 5.6 oz. 100% cotton
  • Standard fit
For something different, you might be interested in BANTAM, FORD AND WILLYS-1/4-TON RECONNAISSANCE CARS.
Wet or Dry Bath Oil Filters?

Wet or Dry Bath Oil Filters?

Oil bath filters are effective at removing dust and dirt from the air used by the engine.  If the oil bath filter was really effective then why did the automotive industry give it up for most if not all applications? Was it just too messy or not green enough for today’s world?

Which version you choose  is not really all that important as both filters work very well under most situations. It’s a personal choice that has no visible impact on the jeep.   It’s a great idea and can be environmentally friendly for all you tree huggers out there.

Some of these folks that pooh pooh the dry air filter are the same ones that tell you to use silicone in the brakes. One modern idea is bad, the other isn’t? Neither one can be seen.

jeep10
Don’t try doing this with an oil bath filter! Your jeep fender will get an oil bath.

Besides if I spill my dry air filter on the fender it doesn’t leave any trace. Trying doing that with a loaded cuppa oil.

I’ve been running my dry air filter for 25 years and it works great. Why did I do it? Well, because I used to drive my jeep in sub-zero weather. You can’t have oil in the oilbath filter in sub zero weather. You are supposed to drain it and run with it dry. How effective can that be? So I converted and haven’t looked back.

jeep12a
The dry filter cartridge easily goes into the canister with the steel adapter.

The adapter I use was made/sold by USM back in the early 1980s.  It’s long out of production.  A friend of mine made a limited production run of adapters made from plastic.  These proved too expensive to sell for a reasonable price.  But have no fear some clever folks have figured out how to make an adapter for parts of your toilet!  Yes, the doughnut ring can be used for something else besides a toilet.  The added benefit is that these rings are pretty cheap compared to the steel or plastic adapters.

People have spotted a lot of issues on my jeep over the years but not one spotted the dry air filter!  Don’t tell the jeep police!

 

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