May 2017

Have you bled your brakes recently?

Okay, so it isn’t actually blood that you bleed, but what is it?  Now I know there are at least two schools of thought: 1. silicone and 2.  non-silicone.  I’m strictly for non-silicone.   Sure I have a little more work to do but let’s face the WW2 jeep’s brakes system is open to the atmosphere.  Either choice is going to end up contaminated.  Well…maybe silicone has an advantage if you never actually drive your jeep!  As I said I’m strictly non-silicone, maybe that is old school but really bleeding the brakes is pretty simple.

bleedingThe hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected or air gets into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes be evidenced through the presence of a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through to the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. When bleeding the brakes it is advisable that the longest fluid line from the master cylinder be bled first. The proper sequence of bleeding is right rear; right front; left rear; left front. During the bleeding operation the master cylinder must be kept at least 3/4 full of hydraulic brake fluid.

To bleed the brakes first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler plug. Remove filler plug and fill master cylinder to the lower edge of filler neck. Clean off all bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach bleeder hose and fixture to right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place end of tube in a glass jar, end submerged in fluid. Open the bleeder valve 12 to 3/4 of a turn. See figure.

Depress the foot pedal by hand, allowing it to return very slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the fluid through the line and out the bleeder hose which carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, tighten the bleeder valve and remove the hose.

After the bleeding operation has been completed at all four wheels, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug. It is not advisable to re-use the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process.

If you’re old school or a rookie…or,  maybe just want to know how we did back during the war years, you should check out Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles: Volume 1 and Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 2

You can do this!

You can do this!

If you want to do the most affordable transmission over-haul and replace the minimum amount of parts then measure each part very carefully for wear.  Only replace what you absolutely have to.  Look for uneven wear and I would serious consider replacing both the counter-shaft and the idler shaft if there is any wear.  This would require either replacing the cluster gear (expensive, not sure what current pricing is but it was about $100 when I did it the last time…Richard Grace of Georgia, if still in business, …doesn’t advertise much had the best prices anywhere) or at least the bushings contained in the cluster gear and reverse idler. Well, I was going to go on but I cover this in my book and Richard Grace and Jim Gilmore say it better…

From Page 6 of  Trouble Shooting And Rebuilding The T-84J:

Richard Grace. “The minimum parts replacement would have to be the small parts kit which includes the main driver gear rolls, thrust washers, synchronizer dogs and springs. One other almost necessity is mainline bearings.”

Jim Gilmore. Suggests “replace the pilot bushing (in the flywheel).  It is critical as replacing the main bearings. Failure to do so can set up your main drive gear to wobble–resulting in rapid wear to your bearing.”

I would add to this a new clutch disk and throw-out bearing.  Working on the transmission is very easy as there are only about 57 parts.  All you have to do is follow the steps (and pictures) and you will have done a better job then many “experts” who just crank this so called “rebuilt” transmissions out.  This is not to disparage all T-84J transmission over-haulers but some don’t carefully measure the old parts to see if they need to be replaced.

This is way the T-84J is often accused of being noisy.  If you are over 50 years old (60 plus for a jeep) you would creak too if you have worn parts that don’t get replaced!

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File:Graves at Arlington on Memorial Day.JPG


Memorial Day is a federal holiday in the United States for remembering the people who died while serving in the country’s armed forces.  (source Wikipedia)  This is a time for prayer and remembrance for those who gave all for this country.

Is this exhaust the problem?

The carbon and rust clogged mufflers on some vehicles bring to mind the embarrassment of a German musician who tooted the tuba at a country fair. When the band started to play, “There’ll Be a Hot Time in the Old Town Tonight”, nothing came out of the horn but a series of horrible grunts. The horn player had plenty of wind and ambition and the horn was a first class instrument. What the German didn’t know was that while he had gone away to get a cold beer, some of the local boys had stuffed a dead rat into the horn’s innards.

Too many vehicles are going around that have the equivalent of a dead rat in the muffler. Carburetors are designed to work with an exhaust system that has the minimum amount of back pressure, and anything that restricts the free flow of waste gases is going to give a mighty bad influence on carburetion and engine performance.

The quick statement that “Maybe it’s the carburetor”, is just a shot in the dark until you get, right down to brass tacks and locate the exact nature of the trouble. The important thing is not whether the trouble lies in the carburetor or the front bumper – the important thing is to get results – and you can’t get results with snap judgments.

Article is from the trouble shooting series – Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles,Volume 1 and Volume 2.  The books are available from and other fine booksellers.

Does your jeep have a broken valve spring?

Does your jeep have a broken valve spring?  Mine doesn’t but I thought I would ask!

That well-known American sportsman, the jeep factory representative, offered to lay us nine to one that if one valve spring breaks~ the others are not far from breaking too. We’ll lay you ‘twenty to one, he’s right. So to really do the job right and save your self the trouble of replacing the valve springs one after the other, replace them all, when you’ve got to replace one.

Information is originally from the April 1942, Army Motors and available along with much more in Military Maintenance for MB/GPW Jeeps 1941-45.

Do you like to read? I do.

Do you like to read? I do when it is a good book.  Here’s one…

The Jeep: History of a World War II Legend is a very good book that you might like…assuming you like the WW2 jeep, that is!

The Jeep: History of a World War II Legend

The Jeep: History of a World War II Legend

You might think that a book with only 80 pages would be light on content but the authors, David Dalet and Christophe Le Bitoux do a great job in putting it together.

They discuss “Origin of the name jeep” in one all too short section.  While well written it is light on information. The use of the name “jeep” is associated first with the Minneapolis-Moline Company’s tractor and then the authors mention the Bantam.   There is no mention of the Dodge 1/2-ton being referred to as a “jeep”, especially by the Armor Corps.  There is no mention of the Ford GP.  While GP did not stand for general purpose in connection with Ford, it was the abbreviation for what the 1/4-ton vehicles were and that is a general purpose vehicle.  This is evident when you read the TM 9-803 description about the vehicle.

There are some really great historical pictures in the book, some of which I don’t think I’ve seen before. Color photo’s are also included.  These are photos of the vehicles as they are today (or as restored today!).

Anyway, I own a copy of the book and recommend it to anyone that collects books on the subject jeeps…especially WW2 jeeps!


Cowgirl Barbeque Pin Up Girl Poster


Cowgirl Barbeque Pin Up Girl PosterBuy at Giclee Print

What GI wouldn’t hurry home to this little buckaroo after a long day or night of driving?


Patiently waiting…

A 1942 Ford GPW “jeep” waiting patiently for the driver to take them home and to some BBQ!

If you like pinups you might be interested in The Great American Pin-Up, available from Amazon.

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