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I just love that "Go-Devil" Engine! But what I really love is all the little details about the jeep--check out this book!

If your WW2 jeep transmission is noisy then maybe it needs some tender lovin’ care! Sure that transmission is not going to be as quiet as a modern Caddie tranny but it shouldn’t be a screamer.

Many times on this website we have had questions asked about “is it normal for the jeep (T-84J) transmission to be “noisy”. I have asked this question myself. It had been too long since I “rebuilt” my transmission…about 15 or so years, so I couldn’t remember what it sounded like when it was “new”.

Some claim that the jeep transmission is normally noisy…or it’s cousin the transfer case. So according to them it’s no big deal. Perhaps it is all a matter of degree. One man’s noise is another’s music?

Before I rebuilt my transmission last year I was deeply concerned over the noise coming out of the transmission. To be fair to those who responded, it is difficult if not impossible to diagnose sounds that have been translated into the written word. I had right to be concerned as it turned out, the cluster gear was about 1/3 gone! And still Frankenjeep(tm) lived! It clung to life even as I pushed it to 55mph (with an evil non-sacrosanct or is that synchrosanct? over-drive) for a final round trip of about 138 miles before the rebuild. The tranny never let me down.

When I disassembled the T-84J that when I discovered the damage. Not knowing what other damaged might have been caused by bits of metal “floating” around in the case, I elected to buy all new gears and shafts. For this project I purchased most of the parts from three vendors. I repurchased some parts because the brand new synchro from one vendor turned out to be brand new junk…could not get it to slip. Some parts I purchased from Europe through Ebay.

While many of my parts were likely re-usable I felt it best to use all new gears and shafts. I did re-use the shift forks, the case and the tower. Pretty much everything else was new. I figured that if their were any problems with the tower, it’s an easy to replace item while the transmission is still installed in the jeep.

Assembling the T-84J is really not difficult. There are about 58 parts, so it isn’t brain surgery, just following the steps and asking for clarification when the steps aren’t as clear as they could be. (That’s why I am writing/editing/filming a how-to rebuild the T-84J) So anyone with basic tools can do the job.

After assembly and installation in the jeep, I have now driven it for over a year…not as many miles as I would have liked…but I can tell you that the transmission is NOT noisy at all. Sure it’s no coup de’ville caddy quiet. But there are not loud whines or any grinding noise…., except when I misshift.

Why would anyone think that the T-84J is a noisy transmission. After all, you purchased a rebuilt transmission for respected dealers. Perhaps all of you know this but I didn’t. Rebuilt can be a misleading term. I was told by a dealer that I respect that basically a dealer rebuild consists of new bearings, synchro, new shafts, gaskets, seals and small parts kit as I remember it. The gears aren’t replaced. This doesn’t mean they wouldn’t replace a broken tooth gear but also means that the parts could be just inside of their wear tolerances (like the bushings).

Of course this all could be my imagination. I distinctly recall that my transmission was very loud prior to the rebuild. I even tried synthetics (okay) and higher viscosity lubes (don’t do it!). I drove it this morning without the top and I couldn’t hear it, perhaps just a quiet hmmmm but nothing more.

So if you don’t know the condition of your transmission and it is noisy perhaps it isn’t “normal” and is begging for a rebuilt. My latest T-84J rebuild included about $600 worth of new parts from Richard Grace. Very reasonable. Sure the fellow I rebuilt this for could have purchased a “new” rebuilt transmission for that but it would have had all new guts for that price. I put it together for him and that might have been worth about $400 of my time, if I had been charging. So for about grand you could have basically a new transmission. It took me several weekends to take the transmission apart, order the parts I needed and to assemble the transmission. I discovered other parts (shift rails) that failed to clean up, that needed to be replaced. Also, I was filming the rebuild. All of this added up to delays. It more than likely wouldn’t take a shadetree mechanic, more than a weekend to rebuild the transmission, assuming you pre-ordered all the parts up front.

If you assemble it yourself instead of having someone do it; you would save a lot and learn a lot.
While I enjoy driving my jeep much more than working on it…sometimes working on it can be fun as well.

Trouble Shooting And Rebuilding The T-84J

by Robert Notman
$34.95
Do you own a WW2 Willys MB or Ford GPW “jeep”? Or are you interested in owning one someday? These vehicles are pushing well past 70 years old and will need maintenance and repair. At some point your T-84J transmission will need trouble shooting or rebuilding. The purpose of this book is twofold, to show just how “easy” it is to rebuild the T-84J transmission and to perhaps allow the novice to decide whether it is better to have it rebuilt by a pro. The process of recording the rebuilding of a T-84J transmission will hopefully help others who might want to rebuild their own. Assembling the T-84J is really not difficult. There are about 58 parts, so it isn’t rocket science. It’s just following the steps and asking for clarification when the steps aren’t as clear as they could be. So follow along as we tear into a T-84J transmission…you can do it!
Now available from Lulu.com or Amazon.com!

While the photo below does not show a jeep, it does show a Dodge that is receiving its’ registration number

The additional pictures did not show the detail of the connectors being removed but I suppose they were.

Notice the square dots between the USA.

BANTAM, FORD AND WILLYS—1/4-TON RECONNAISSANCE CARS

By Robert Notman
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Paperback, 170 pages
BANTAM, FORD AND WILLYS—1/4-TON RECONNAISSANCE CARS

$24.95

Ships in 3–5 business days
The 1/4-ton, 4×4, truck of World War Two started out in the hands of the Infantry and a little company called American Bantam Car Company. Bantam worked with the Army’s Quartermaster Corps to produce the pilot model that was accepted and then fulfilled their initial contract for 70 trucks. During testing of the pilot both Ford and Willys-Overland were invited to check out this new vehicle. The vehicles were studied in great detail. Soon, at their own expense, Ford and Willys-Overland submitted pilots for testing too. This book covers the production prototypes–Bantam BRC-40, Ford GP and the Willys MA.
If I can work on the WW2 jeep transmission, so can you!

If I can work on the WW2 jeep transmission, so can you!

If I can work on a WW2 jeep transmission, then you can too! Why not give it a try!
You are right to want to work on the T84J yourself.  For the most part it is very easy.  It doesn’t contain so many parts that you can’t do it yourself.

At a minimum you would normally want to replace the bearings at each end, gaskets and the small parts kit, oh, and perhaps the cluster gear shaft. However, if there is rust everywhere on the gears, you may find it necessary to replace even more. If you read the TM 9-1803B, it will help you by providing required tolerances.  The last transmission I worked on had parts supplied by Richard Grace. His prices were very reasonable.  I believe that all the parts come to under $600 (2003 prices). I’m not sure he is still in business.  But you can get a rebuilt tranny for the price of the parts?  Right?  Well, apparently the secret is that you aren’t getting all new gears only what’s “necessary”.  So for the same amount of money you will know what you have. Of course, if you mike the gears for tolerances you may be able to get off much cheaper.

The two screws are likely bristol types. Though apparently T-84 WW2 Jeep transmission.other types have been used since the war.  If you have already mucked them up as I had done, I used a 3 piece tool set from Sears that is designed to remove mucked up screw heads.

No amount of fooling around with the mucked up screws allowed me to get them out…but less than 30 seconds with the Sears tool and I was done.

I wrote a book about the T-84J transmission called Trouble Shooting And Rebuilding The T-84J that you might find helpful.

Your oil is important…use the right stuff!

Stay away from non-detergent oils. Stay away from high viscosity oils like 20w50. Stick with 10w30 or plain oil 30wt oils. 10w30 is kinda nice because you don’t have to remember to change your oil in the cold times. The engine was designed for 30 wt oils at normal operating temperatures. Colder temps called for 10 wt oil. You can use the synthetics if you like but maintain the proper wt and wait till after say 500 miles (a break-in period for the engine).

 

If anyone asks, keep the oil filter. Those that tell you to remove the oil filter or to block it off are sorely mistaken.

Oil pressure is going to vary. Consult the manual for details (although as I remember they are fairly vague and not detailed). But I think you should see 50-60 lbs of oil pressure at start-up. Once it is warm and at idle it will trail off perhaps as low as 25 to 30 lbs. When you accelerate the oil pressure should of course go up.

If you have my book, Military Maintenance for MB/GPW Jeeps 1941-45, ( or the old wartime Army Motors ) you can read about oil and petroleum from the WW2 perspective (and most of that information is just as true today!) starting on page 137.

I just love a man in uniform!
Retro Army Joe Dope the anti hero of World War Two, a great looking T-shirt.  Joe Dope was the ever present ne’er do well.  He hoarded parts.  He used screw-drivers as pry bars.  Basically, he did everything he could for the war effort…it’s just that it was all wrong.Look cool without breaking the bank. Our durable, high-quality, pre-shrunk 100% cotton t-shirt is what to wear when you want to go comfortably casual. Preshrunk, durable and guaranteed.

  • 5.6 oz. 100% cotton
  • Standard fit
The shirts are available in a eight colors.  Military Green is shown.  Order on line or call TOLL FREE (US) at 877.809.1659  and give the operator product number  98118468  and the size desired.
This is a fun shirt.  I had mine for a couple of years now and really like it–you will to!  Prices subject to change!
What is a blackout main light switch?

What is a blackout main light switch?

The blackout light switch is a push-pull type in the “early” jeeps, later jeeps came with rotary type switch. The switch controls all the lights, depending on which position it is set to.

Blackout Main Light Switch

Blackout Main Light Switch

You know you need to have some taillights on a WW2 jeep, right?

You know you need to have some taillights on a WW2 jeep, right?

WW2 jeep taillights

Two combination taillights and stop lights are located in the rear panel of the jeep body. Each light consists of two separate units in a housing.

The left-hand light contains a combination service tail and stop light unit in the upper part, and a blackout taillight in the lower part. The upper unit consists of the taillight lens, gasket, reflector, and a 21-3 candlepower lamp. The lower unit consists of blackout lens, gasket, reflector, and 3-candlepower lamp.

The right-hand light contains a blackout stop light unit in the upper part, and a blackout taillight in the lower part.  The upper consists of the blackout stop light lens, gasket, reflector and 3-candlepower lamp. The lower unit is the same as the unit in the left light.

These lights are controlled by the blackout (main) light switch.

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