Are you up on blackout headlights?

Are you up on blackout headlights?

The blackout headlights on the WW2 jeep are two very small lights that emitted only horizontal light rays. The theory being that it presented less of a target.

Blackout headlight used on the WW2 jeep.

There are two blackout headlights used in the jeep.These headlights are illuminated only when the blackout (main) light switch is in the blackout position. Mazda 1245 (6 volt) lamps are used.

I just love olive drab paint. I get goose pimples just thinking about it !

I just love olive drab paint. I get goose pimples just thinking about it !


One of the many things that can cause quite a “stir” is the discussion of paint…specifically lustreless olive drab paint. Paint called lusterless olive drab has been available at retail from a number of sources. Until recently none of the manufacturers (or retailers) have sufficiently documented their paint. Basically, this is olive drab, buy it or not.

A good friend of mine, Paul, at TM 9 Ordnance Paints decided to produce an authentic version of the WW2 lustreless olive drab. He really did his research to develop this paint. He first developed a modern version of the paint that used a catalyst as a hardener to leave a very tough finish. Die-hard purist had to wait a few months until he came out with a synthetic enamel version of the paint that replicates the wear and finish of the original.You should know that during the war there was only ONE olive drab. These means that there wasn’t an early or late version of the paint that had any visual difference in the color. Some retailers claim there is an early vs. later, which just isn’t true. What is true is that the paint would look different with different batches or even within the same batch. There is so much angular material in the paint that it’s final shade can depend on how well you mix it. Manuals from back in the day acknowledge that the color would appear different with each paint job. This doesn’t mean that the color was hugely different. An interesting article about olive drab can be found at

For period articles about the paint used in WW2 and how to use it, you might be interested in my book – Military Maintenance for MB/Gpw Jeeps 1941-45.  It covers paint and much more!

I just love that "Go-Devil" Engine! But what I really love is all the little details about the jeep--check out this book!

I just love that “Go-Devil” Engine! But what I really love is all the little details about the jeep–check out this book!

Here’s an announcement: Herbert R. Rifkind’s book “Jeep -Its Development and Procurement Under the Quartermaster Corp 1940 -1942″ is available. It is in the original manual script format. Photographs inserted were chosen to replicate the ones that Rifkind originally chose. Some were left out because I could not find the image or because the image appeared to be from a copyrighted source.

This edition contains the complete text which the 1983 and 1988 did not have. This version did not have as many pen and ink changes present as the 1983 version. I think you will find it more readable then the British (1988) version. You can find the book at on line booksellers like and–and it should be available everywhere on line. The retail price is 19.95. 228 pages (including an introduction that I added).

ISBN-10: 146370917X
ISBN-13: 978-1463709174

CreateSpace: Jeep – Its development and procurement under the Quartermaster Corps, 1940-1942

Amazon: Jeep – Its development and procurement under the Quartermaster Corps, 1940-1942

Check out John Farley's lastest jeep book!

Check out John Farley’s latest jeep book!

John Farley has done it again. He has come out with a second version of his book on standardized WW2 jeeps 41-45. He has divided the work into Willys and Ford. He goes thru the variations for each year with large and detailed shots to illustrate his points. Very well done and like the first volume the best work to date that includes information for all the war years. The only thing missing are the pre-standardized jeeps and those have already been covered by other authors…including myself!   Well, it looks like this book is out of print.  You might be able to find it at Portrayal Press if you contact them.

Having the right tool for the job can be down right you have all of your vehicle tools?

Having the right tool for the job can be down right handy…do you have all of your vehicle tools?

a. Unless vehicle is equipped with special equipment, the following are supplied (one of each unless otherwise specified):
Thankfully you don’t have to lug around all of these tools!

Tool Federal Stock No. Where Carried

ADAPTER, lubr. gun ………………… Tool bag
APPARATUS, decontaminating,12 qt…. Driver’s compartment
Ax, chopping, single-bit ….. 41-A-1277 Body left side
BAG, tool ……………… 41-B-15 Tool compartment
CATALOG, ord. std. nom. list.. SNL-G-503 Glove compartment
CHAINS(4) , tire, 6.00 x 16 ……. 8-C-2358 Tool compartment
CONTAINER, 5-gallon …….. ………… Bracket on rear
COVER (2), headlight ……….. ………… Under right seat
COVER, windshield ………. ………… Under right seat
CRANK, starting ………… ………… Under rear seat
EXTINGUISHER, fire ……… 58-E-202 Inside cowl, left
GAGE, tire pressure ………. 8-G-615 Tool compartment
GUN, lubr., hand-type ……. 41-G-1330-60 Tool compartment
MANUAL, technical ……… TM 9-803 Glove compartment
NOZZLE, flexible tube …………………………….
OILER, straight spout, Y2-pt.. 13-0-1530 Front of dash
PUMP, tire, w/chuck ……… 8-P-5000 Behind rear seat
RIFLE ………………… ………… On dash
SHOVEL, D-handle, rd. pt….. 41-S-3170 Body, left side
TAPE, friction, roll ………. 17-T-805 Parts bag
WIRE, iron, roll …………. 22-W-650 Parts bag

Do you have all of your jeep's tools on board and ready to use?

Do you have all of your jeep’s tools on board and ready to use?

WW2 Jeep Tools

a. Unless the vehicle is equipped with extra tool equipment, the following are supplied (one of each unless otherwise specified):
You gotta have the right tool!
You gotta have the right tool!
Tool Federal Stock No. Where Carried
HAMMER, machinist’s, ball
peen, 16 oz … …. 41-H-523 Tool bag
JACK, screw type, l1 -ton,
w/handle ……………. 41-J-66 Tool compartment
PLIERS, combination, slip
joint, 6-in …………… 41-P-1650 Tool bag
PULLER, wheel hub ……… 41-P-2962-700 Tool compartment
WRENCH, drain plug …….. 41-W-1962-50 Tool bag
WRENCH, engineer’s open-end,
3/8- x 7/ 6 -in. ………….. 41-W-991 Tool bag
WRENCH, engineer’s open-end,
yz- x 1% 2-in ………….. 41-W-1003 Tool bag
WRENCH, engineer’s open-end,
%6- x ll6-in …………. 41-W-1005-5 Tool bag
WRENCH, engineer’s open-end,
/8- x 25/32 -in ………….. 41-W-1008-10 Tool bag
WRENCH, engineer’s open-end,
3/4- x 7/8-in. ………….. 41-W-1012-5 Tool bag
WRENCH, hydraulic brake,
bleeder screw …………. 41-W-1596-125 Tool bag
WRENCH, adjustable, auto
type, 11-in. ………….. 41-W-449 Tool bag
WRENCH, socket, screw fluted. 41-W-2459-500 Tool bag
WRENCH, socket, spark plug,
w/handle ……………. 41-W-3335-50 Tool bag
WRENCH, wheel bearing nut,
2/ 8 -in. hex…………… 41-W-3825-200 Tool compartment
WRENCH, wheel stud nut,
4%4 -in. hex ………….. 41-W-3837-55 Tool compartment
So what sort of gear lube should you use in that WW2 jeep?
Or, why you’ll use GO 90 instead of SAE 140, which you can’t get.

This article has been extracted from Military Maintenance for MB/GPW 1941-1945. Originally appearing in WW2 Army Motors.

It was a very hot day in the ARMY MOTORS’ office. The Editor was mopping his face with next month’s ‘Contribution’ section and leering at Connie Rodd who was wearing a blue denim play-suit. Half-Mast had disappeared in the general direction of Bill’s Place, and the technicians sat in a circle an the floor playing a vicious game. of Parcheesi.

Suddenly two tiny men, one purple and one green, bath with pink mustaches and GI haircuts, leaped out of the ashtray, one yelling “NINETY”! and the other screaming “EIGHTY ONE-FORTY”. Beating each other over the head with paper clips, they scurried across the desk and under the telephone.

“Hmmm,” said Ed, pouring another beer.

“Looks like some more at that business about transfer case lubes.” “Caddington” he cried, painting a bony finger at Caddington, “Caddington, find out for once and for all WHY the men have to use GO 90 in transfer cases instead of SAE 140, on a day like this. People say the GO 90 causes transfer case leakage. Now, Caddington is not an ambitious man. If he were, he would have disappeared far thirteen days and thirteen nights, and returned with an article. Instead, he reached in his pocket, pulled out a grimy piece of paper labeled “Fargo Technical Bulletin #46G” and tossed it on the desk.

“Half-Mast said you’d ask, and there’s the answer”, he explained. Then he went back to sleep.

Well now, our Ed knows as well as you do that the reasons for using GO 90 instead of SAE 140 in transfer cases are mostly military. We don’t use any mare different varieties of lube in the army these days than we absolutely need; result, fewer kinds to supply, less shortages, everybody happier. And GO 90 is at least an acceptable substitute far SAE 140. But our expert has proof that GO 90 is better in transfer cases than SAE 140, because GO 90 is less likely to leak.

It’s all on account of the heat which SAE 140 generates when the vehicle is in operation. The gears of the transfer case have to do more work an the SAE 140 oil (because it’s a heavier oil), thus generating more heat in the oil. This lubricant usually warms up to a temperature of 235 to 260 degrees Fahrenheit, whereas GO 90 seldom gets above 190 to 210.

These higher temperatures have two results:

(1) The SAE 140 gets thinner us it gets hotter. By actual test, SAE 140 has the same viscosity at its operating temperature as GO 90 has at its operating temperature. Therefore, one will leak just as fast as the other if leakage is going to occur.

(2)More serious, the aver. heated SAE 140 will harden the oil seals, increasing the wear an the companion-flange hub, and thus actually cause leakage.

So. don’t be wishing for SAE 140, says our expert; be glad there’s none issued. Instead, if your vehicle is troubled with transfer-case leaks, try this:

(1) Check the lube level; maybe you have too much and the extra pressure is forcing the leaks. The level should be at the plug opening immediately after operation, or 1/2″ below the opening if the oil has had time to cool. Always check the vent in the transfer case to be sure it is open. This should be done each time the lube level is checked. If this vent is closed, leakage is bound to occur at the oil seals.

(2) Check the universal-joint companion flanges for up-and-down play in the bearings. If they are loose, remove the transfer case and get the bearings adjusted (you can’t get a proper adjustment while the case is still in the vehicle) .

(3) If it isn’t the bearings, remove the companion flanges and take a look at the hubs and ail seals. Replace any of either that are warn (treating new seals with ail to. soften the leather).

(4) If you have any doubt about the grade of lube in the transfer case, drain it out and install GO 90 far warm weather or GO 80 according to .the temperature chart as set up in the lube guide. Drain the transfer case should be done while it is hot, otherwise you won’t get all of the old oil out. If there is any question of dirt in the transfer case, it should be flushed with OE 10.

(5) Tighten the transfer-case mounting bolts.

Want to find out more about the WW2 jeep transfer case? Then you need this book – TM 9-1803B Power Train, Body, and Frame for Willys Overland Model MB and Ford Model GPW 1/4 Ton 4×4 Technical Manual.