Solex Carburetor for L-head jeeps.Solex Carburetor for L-head jeeps.

The Omix-Ada 17701.01 Carburetor Solex Designed L-Head for Jeep.  This carb is a good substitute for a worn out Carter carburetor.  It can be purchased for a reasonable amount.  The only drawbacks are that the fittings are metric and in smaller towns, it can be difficult to find the appropriate adapter and the Solex is sensitive to fuel pressure.

The problem seemed to be that the reproduction or repaired WW2 jeep fuel pumps were supplying too much pressure and overfeeding the Solex. I solved the resulting flooding by installing a Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Is you carb sad? Why not a new one?

Is your carb sad? Why not buy a new one?

The Solex was used on a limited basis on WW2 jeeps repaired by the French for the US Army.

I found the Solex to be responsive and easy to start (if you know how).  So if your Carter is all worn out, consider going with the Solex.  The Solex is available from a number retailers including

You also might be interested in an original looking reproduction made by Joe’s Motor Pool, also available at several jeep parts retailers.

What were the jeeps before they were called jeeps?

What were the jeeps before they were called jeeps?

They were called Bantams! Find out more about the Bantam BRC by reading Warbaby by William Spear.  Bill Spear is passionate about Bantam receiving fair credit for designing the jeep.   The Bantam was the first jeep!  Recently Chrysler LLC ballyhooed the 75th anniversary of the jeep…but, of course, Bantam was built in 1940.


usn_jeep The photo is dated May 1942.  The jeep is being used by the Marines to tow a glider.

Oliver and Stanley’s Jeep – NavyGateOllieOllie and Stanley are driving in a Navy adventure. A 1/32 scale jeep by Gates. A nice model with pretty good detail. Good enough for a couple of sailor boys.GateOllie02Typical front end detail without any markings. The national symbol is on the hood without registration numbers or other markings.GateOllie03The jeep is complete with a gas can and spare tire. No pintle.

Have you checked your brakes recently?   I can tell if you’re lying to me!

a. Introduction. If the hydraulic brake system, and the drum and brake shoe clearance are satisfactory, when the brake pedal is depressed with sufficient force to set brakes firmly, the pedal will have a “solid” feel, with at least 2 inches of floorboard clearance. During the initial 1/4 to 1/2 inch of pedal travel, the pedal should move freely (if pedal clearance is correctly adjusted it will be 3/4 inch for the WW2 jeep). The sub-paragraphs below furnish probable remedies for various behaviors of a defective brake system, based on the behavior of the brake pedal as a symptom.

b. Pedal Has Less than 2 Inches Floorboard Clearance. Adjust clearance between brake shoes and drums.

c. Pedal Has a “Springy” Feel. This is usually evidence that the brake shoes are improperly set, or have been relined with an incorrect thickness of lining. Improper shoe setting would indicate the need for a major brake adjustment. Before making a decision on this type of condition, road test the vehicle (or test it on a brake machine). This will indicate a “hard” pedal and a “poor” stop if these conditions are present. After road or machine test, pull wheels, check lining thickness, contact, drum condition, fit of shoes to drum, and anchor adjustment, to determine the exact cause of difficulty.

d. Pedal Has a “Spongy” Feel. Bleed air from the hydraulic system.

e. Pedal Jams or Binds. Check for mechanical interference; also check for broken piston stop wire in the master cylinder. Check master cylinder mountings and linkage, and if a booster is used, check mechanical linkage between master cylinder and booster.

f. Pedal Goes to Floorboard and Can Be Built Up by Pumping. If pressure can be built up, hold down hard to see if pressure will decrease. After holding for 1/2 minute, reduce pressure on foot without releasing pedal, and press lightly to see if pedal moves down under light pressure. This test will reveal a master cylinder cup which is thin, permitting fluid to bypass within the master cylinder without showing signs of leaking on the outside of the master cylinder.

g. Pedal Goes to Floorboard and Cannot Be Built Up by Pumping. Check fluid level in master cylinder reservoir. If insufficient fluid is present, test brake pedal action and perform operations described under new symptom. If sufficient fluid is present, continue with operations described in this subparagraph. Where accessible, feel the master cylinder boot to determine if wet with brake fluid. Squeeze boot with fingers; if the fluid is expelled around or through the boot, it is an indication that the master cylinder is leaking and should be removed, inspected, repaired, or replaced. If no evidence of leaks is apparent at the master cylinder, inspect all fluid lines along the frame, all hose and hose connections, the bottom edges of all brake flanges, and the inner sidewall of tires for signs of brake fluid leakage. If no external signs of leaks are found, but the pedal still leaks off under pressure, pull all four wheels and inspect the wheel cylinders. If no external fluid losses are found, but pedal “eases down” under constant but light foot pressure, it is a good indication that pressure is bypassing within the master cylinder; in which case, remove and repair or replace.

If you have a WW2 jeep or want a WW2 jeep, you need this book – The Complete WW2 Military Jeep Manual.  You will found out how to service the brakes and a lot of other important staff–it’s a must-have book for the real WW2 jeep enthusiast!

ArmyJillwithrifleArmy Jill stands guard to protect her jeep.  You can protect your jeep by knowing how to operate it properly.

I was looking at the synchronizer the other day and it made me recall a discussion concerning “double clutching” and whether or not you need to use this method of shifting with the T-84J.  First, off, what the heck is meant by, and how do you “double clutch”?

Double Clutching, was a prescribed feature of Army driver training.  The “purpose of double clutching is to synchronize the speed of the flywheel and the turning clutch disks so that gear shifting may be accomplished with a minimum of clashing of gears.”

What is the procedure?

  1. Depress clutch pedal
  2. Move gearshift lever to the neutral position
  3. Release the clutch and at the same time depress the accelerator until the engine speeds up and the gear speeds are more nearly synchronized.
  4. Depress clutch pedal again move the gear-shift lever to the next lower position.
  5. Release the clutch pedal and at the same time accelerate the engine to obtain desired road speed.

…the procedure is the same for shifting to a higher speed, except that the engine is not accelerated while the gears are in neutral, per TM 21-300 page 113.

Double clutching is also mentioned in TM 21-305, dated November 1944.

However, according to TM 9-803, page 18, para 5c(6): …No double clutching is required…

The only time you might want to double clutch is when shifting from 2nd or 3rd into 1st gear. Not a practice that I recommend but sometimes you may find yourself in need of lower gears. Just use caution.  I guess you might also find it necessary to double clutch if your synchro is badly worn, too.  Don’t rely on this procedure–rebuild that transmission as soon as you can.

Have you bled your brakes recently?

Have you bled your brakes recently? I thought so…so listen up, Bub!

Now I know there are at least two schools of thought: 1. silicone and 2.  non-silicone.  I’m strictly for non-silicone.   Sure I have a little more work to do but let’s face the WW2 jeep’s brakes system is open to the atmosphere.  Either choice is going to end up contaminated.  Well, …maybe silicone has an advantage if you never actually drive your jeep!  As I said I’m strictly non-silicone, maybe that is old school but really bleeding the brakes is pretty simple.

The hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever a fluid line has been disconnected or air gets into the system. A leak in the system may sometimes be evidenced by the presence of a spongy brake pedal. Air trapped in the system is compressible and does not permit pressure applied to the brake pedal to be transmitted solidly through to the brakes. The system must be absolutely free from air at all times. When bleeding the brakes it is advisable that the longest fluid line from the master cylinder be bled first. The proper sequence of bleeding is right rear; right front; left rear; left front. During the bleeding operation, the master cylinder must be kept at least 3/4 full of hydraulic brake fluid.

To bleed the brakes first carefully clean all dirt from around the master cylinder filler plug. Remove the filler plug and fill the master cylinder to the lower edge of the filler neck. Clean off all bleeder connections at all four wheel cylinders. Attach bleeder hose and fixture to right rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw and place end of the tube in a glass jar, end submerged in fluid. Open the bleeder valve 12 to 3/4 of a turn. See figure above.

Depress the foot pedal by hand, allowing it to return very slowly. Continue this pumping action to force the fluid through the line and out the bleeder hose which carries with it any air in the system. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, tighten the bleeder valve and remove the hose.

After the bleeding operation has been completed at all four wheels, fill the master cylinder reservoir and replace the filler plug. It is not advisable to re-use the fluid which has been removed from the lines through the bleeding process.

If you’re old school or a rookie…or,  maybe just want to know how we did back during the war years, you should check out Automotive Trouble Shooting for WW2 Wheeled Vehicles: Volume 1 and Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 2