Could it be the carb?  Could be...

Could it be the carb? Could be but…

Failure of the engine to operate is rarely caused by carburetor defects. If it is determined that the carburetor is responsible (that is, the ignition system is working properly and fuel is reaching the carburetor), the carburetor may be clogged or the float level may be improper.

I knew it wasn’t likely the carb that was acting up!

The only adjustments the second and third echelons can make on the carburetor are adjustments of the idling speed, the idling mixture, the choke control mechanism, and the accelerator pump seasonal adjustment. Improper adjustment should not prevent engine operation, but proper adjustment is necessary for maximum operating efficiency.


Look for leaks at the fuel-line connections. If any leakage cannot be stopped by drawing up the union nut, there maybe a split tube or a poor seat in the union. A damaged flare should be cut off and a new flare made with a flaring tool. Packing with a string may serve as a temporary repair. If the fuel contains a dye, a fuel leak may be indicated by an accumulation of the dye. But it should be remembered that he porous metal used for some castings sometimes permits a small amount of seepage, and an accumulation of dye may be due to this rather than a fuel leak. Leakage may be caused by a split adapter, in which case temporary repair can be made by soldering (Editor’s Note: Use caution when attempting to solder anything used in the fuel system. The parts should be cleaned of all fuel residue before attempting to solder. If you do not already know how to solder, just procure new parts!)

Fuel Bowl

Fuel seeping out around the fuel-bowl cover indicates a loose cover, a damaged gasket or casting, or a defective float valve. Slight seepage is probably due to a loose cover. Extensive seepage is likely to be caused by a defective float valve. (Editor’s Note: The “defective float valve” could simply be the result of contaminated fuel – dirt/rust, etc.)

  1. Remove the fuel-bowl cover to examine the float. If the float contains fuel, causing it to lose buoyancy, determine where the fuel entered the float and drill a small hole (1/8 in.) at this point. Drain the fuel from the float, and patch the hole with a light drop of solder. (Editor’s Note: See comment above about soldering. Today it practical just to obtain a new float in a carb rebuild kit.)
  2. If the float needle valve and seat show indications of wear, replace them with new parts and new gaskets. From the specifications of the carburetor, adjust the carburetor, determine the correct float level, and set the float by bending the float support arm. Hold the float in the closed position and blow into the fuel-line adapter. No air should pass through the valve. (Editor’s Note: For MB/GPWs set the float with a gage or 3/8 in.)
  3. Examine the gasket. Replace it if there are any breaks or hardened sections. Be sure the new gasket does not obstruct any apertures in the housings. Draw down the cover screws evenly.

Plug Caps

Inspect all caps covering the check valves and jets. Tighten any of these that leak. Tighten the flange nuts or cap screws holding the carburetor to the manifold assembly.

Fuel Stainer

Remove fuel strainer from the carburetor or the cover from the strainer. Wash the strainer with cleaning fluid and a brush and dry it with compressed air. Examine strainer gasket, and replace if compressed or damaged.

Solex If Your Tired of Fooling Around With Old Carter Carbs

Now if you get fed up with your old Carter, you might consider purchasing a brand new Solex Carburetor. The Solex is a good carb to use but it doesn’t work the same as a Carter when it comes to cold starting and choke.  In fact, the Solex doesn’t have a choke…it has a starter.

I just love to read a good book.

Of course, I love my jeep but the Bantam was first.

Bantam - The First To Deliver Jr. Spaghetti TankThe first 1/4-ton developed for the US Army for WW2, now on a color Spaghetti Tank.  Great for your WW2 jeep loving wife or girlfriend.

Our spaghetti tank from American Apparel will keep you in style year round. Made of soft 100% superfine combed cotton baby rib, this tank provides the perfect silhouette.

  • 5.8 oz. 100% Ultra-fine combed ring spun 1×1 baby rib cotton
  • Size up for a looser fit
  • ½ binding trim on straps and neck
  • Made in the U.S.A.

Available in FOUR colors: lemon, white, light blue and light pink.  Only 17.99 (price subject to change) plus shipping.

Purchase on line by clicking the link or by calling  877.809.1659 and giving the operator the product number 140095412.

Army Jill pauses by the 42 Ford GPW

Army Jill pauses by the 42 Ford GPW

Check out The Pinup Girls.  It’s has several beautiful ladies from the WW2 era along with some of their stats. If you like pinups then you also might be interested in 1000 Pin-Up Girls (25th Anniversary Special Edtn).
Need to tow a gun?  Get a jeep!

Need to tow a gun? Get a jeep!

At left is a close-up photo of the 37mm Anti-Tank Gun carriage. The original carriage did not have a goose-neck ring so the gun would dig into the ground (on rough terrain). Notice how there are TWO different rings. The original short and straight ring and then the ring actually being used by the Bantam.Note the rear gas cap on this early jeep.

See more pictures about the Bantam (and the other pre-standardized jeeps) available in BANTAM, FORD AND WILLYS-1/4-TON RECONNAISSANCE CARS by Robert Notman.

Printed: 170 pages, 8.5″ x 11″, perfect binding, black and white interior ink.

ISBN: 978-1-84728-188-3

$24.95 plus shipping.  Ships worldwide.  Available at bookstores and

Jonathan Frank’s father drove a WW2 jeep home from the war.  He drove from California to North Carolina.  Once home he parked it in a barn on the farm and said he would never drive it again.  However, his son, Jonathan and his brother, drove the jeep on the farm.  Over the years he has rebuilt it at least three times.  The most recent rebuilt was initiated when his own son blew the rear differential.  Jonathan admits that the jeep is a work in progress and that it is only about 80 percent original.  The winch on the front was a gift from his brother’s old jeep.  He also purchased some disc brakes from me.  One thing for sure I bet Jonathan has a blast driving the jeep!

For a few more pictures look here.

You might be interested in learning more about  WW2. Eyewitness to World War II: Unforgettable Stories and Photographs From History’s Greatest Conflict gives a glimpse into the personal lives from the war. You will find personal letters and rarely seen photos. It’s a very interesting book.

The short answer is yes! This question comes up fairly often so I’m repeating a previous post for the newer folks.  Also, the T-84 was used in the Studebaker Weasel.

The T-84 was not just used in the WW2 jeep.  The jeep used the T-84J.  Below are listed several (but not all) of the various vehicles that used a T-84.  I didn’t bother to list them but there was at least one car, a Studebaker, that used a T-84 after the war.

Information extracted from The Hollander.

T-84A-1, 1A and T84B-1A
Continental Late ‘32-33 Flyer
Graham 36 80 Crusader

Continental ‘32 Beacon, Early Flyer

Mack ‘37-40 2M4A
Reo Truck ‘36-39 4-75, 3/4 ton

Willys ‘38-39 Pass.
Willys ‘39 Overland

Bantam ‘38-40

Stude ‘39-40 Champion (over drive)

Nash ‘41-42 40

AS1 T-84J
Am Bantam (Jeep) 40 BRC 1/4T 4×4

AS1 T-84J
Willys 41-45 Army 1/4T

AS2 T-84J
Ford Jeep ‘42-45 GPW 1/4 T 4×4

Bantam 41-42

The T-84 gets a rap for being a bad and weak transmission.  You have to wonder why it was used in some many cars (and trucks!) for so long a period of time, if better transmissions were available.

For more about the T-84 WW2 jeep transmission, check out my book  -  Trouble Shooting And Rebuilding The T-84J.  You really can rebuild a WW2 jeep transmission.


You can be a pinup photographer.  Photograph a model with your WW2 jeep!

You can be a pinup photographer. Photograph a model with your WW2 jeep!

Once you have completed work on your jeep, you need something else to do, am I right?

One of the things I did was hire a model or two to pose with my WW2 jeep.  It was a lot of fun but it was also hard.  I had to figure everything out for myself.  How I wanted the model to pose–what would be a good pose anyway?  Camera placement, etc.

Pinup isn’t easy.  But there is a course you can take that isn’t very expensive that can show you how to avoid all the mistakes I made!  The course is called Practical Pinup Online Workshop and comes on a DVD that is nearly an hour long.  You get the raw footage showing the photographer working with the model and a bunch more.



Army Jill takes aim.
Army Jill takes aim.

Pin-ups were very popular during WW2 (and continue to be today). Soldiers in the Army, Navy, and Marines would carry pin-ups with them and post them anywhere they could.

Check out our website 42FordGPW and support our sponsors by clicking on their ads.


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