Trouble Shooting And Rebuilding The T-84J
by Robert Notman

$34.95 PLUS SHIPPING

AVAILABILITY: Books will ship in a minimum of 5 business days. Product Number: 13014504
Genre: AutomobilesPaperback: 158 pages
Description: Rebuild the T-84J WW2 jeep Transmission Yourself! 42FordGPW

Synopsis:Trouble Shooting and Rebuilding The T-84J Transmission is an aide designed to help the novice to decide whether or not to rebuild the T-84J themselves. It covers all sorts of “tricks” and “how-to’s” for tearing down, cleaning, inspecting and then assembling the rebuilt transmission. You will learn trouble shooting tips. Why is your transmission jumping out of gear? Is the T-84J really supposed to be noisy? And much, much more! You also might be interested in the CD version–to see a live action version of what is going on in the book.

Book Details: · Paperback: 158 pages · Binding: Wire-O · Publisher: Robert Notman (August 2004)

You can order online by clicking the link above or by calling TOLLFREE in the US at (877)809-1659.

Miss Bea Havin Dark T-Shirt
Jill as WW2 aircraft nose art Miss Bea Havin

Size: Small Medium Large X-Large 2X-Large (+$3.00)
Color: Black, Cardinal. Military Green. Navy


AVAILABILITY: Dark Apparel will ship in a minimum of 5 business days. 

Product Number: 97361122 CLICK to order or call TOLL FREE in the US at (877)809-1659.

Army Jill Takes a Rest

Price: $29.95 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping. See web site for details.

This is a pretty good book with a ton of pictures. Like most jeep books it contains some errors that detract from an otherwise fine effort by Mr. Farley. IF you wish to restore you jeep there are hundreds of jeep pictures to choose from that just might aid you.

Visit the 42FordGPW Bookstore for more books and other items related to the jeep.

From “Lend Lease Shipments World War II” dated 31 December 1946; 182,597 jeeps shipped:
British Empire received 104,430
USSR 49,250
French Forces 9,736
China 6,944
Brazil 1,985
Other Latin American Countries 992
Canada 8,200
Netherlands 136
Other Countries 872
FEA (?) 52

FEA, could that be French East Asia?

How many of these jeeps are still in the country that lend-leased them?

Like anything else with the jeep in WW2 if you look hard enough you can find examples. The US Army Training Circular No. 15, 1 Nov 1943 added the weight class markers to vehicles. It is described as square in shape (8″ on a side). It says that no self-propelled vehicle whose weight-class is less than 5 tons will be marked. The lightest vehicle to be marked is the 1 1/2-ton truck. Another Training Circular was issued 15 March 1944. No jeeps.

That leaves us with TM 12-260. Anyone have a copy? Dated 31 December 1943. Did this include jeeps? There is also a Training Circular No. 7, 1944.

So far it looks like NO jeeps for US forces.

But all you have to do is look at war time pictures and you can see jeeps marked with a “2″.

Perhaps like many things in WW2 it was up to the area Commanding General to dictate who, what, when and where…and how much?

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and our NEW web book store (where we sell more than books!)


[1] Make a thorough inspection for leaks. Check all oil lines, and tighten connections or replace as necessary (par 204).
[2] Poor driving practices may be responsible and should be corrected. Speeding the engine will result in excessive oil consumption.
[3] Worn pistons or broken piston rings area common cause. Make the compression test (par 9).
[4] 0verheating may be a cause (par 89).
[5] Clogged crankcase ventilator may be a cause (par 207).
[6] Loose connecting rod or main bearings may be a cause.

The above information is from Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Vehicles, Volume 1. Paragraphs that are less than 200 are from Volume 1 and paragraphs over 200 are from Volume 2.

See more information on our book-list at 42FordGPW.com.  These books are available through Amazon.com.

Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles: Volume 1

Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles: Volume 2

As the engine warms, the oil circulates more freely and is more likely to leak from a loose connection. An inspection should be made for oil leaks with the engine warmed up to normal operating temperature. Inspect pan gaskets, timing case cover gasket, valve-spring cover gaskets, push rod-cover gaskets, and fuel-pump gasket. Inspect the oil lines, joints, and connections at the filter and the oil pressure gage. Inspect the flywheel housing for oil leakage from rear main bearing or the crankshaft oil seal, as indicated by a steady drip of oil from the drain hole in the housing. It has been estimated that an oil leak of one drop every 30 feet will account. for a gallon of oil in about 400 miles of driving.

The above is from Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicle, Volume 2.

Or, why you’ll use GO 90 instead of SAE 140, which you can’t get. 

This article has been extracted from Military Maintenance for MB/GPW 1941-1945.  Originally appearing in WW2 Army Motors.

It was a very hot day in the ARMY MOTORS’ office. The Editor was mopping his face with next month’s ‘Contribution’ section and leering at Connie Rodd who was wearing a blue denim play-suit. Half-Mast had disappeared in the general direction of Bill’s Place, and the technicians sat in a circle an the floor playing a vicious game. of Parcheesi.

Suddenly two tiny men, one purple and one green, bath with pink mustaches and GI haircuts, leaped out of the ashtray, one yelling “NINETY”! and the other screaming “EIGHTYONE-FORTY”.  Beating each other over the head with paper clips, they scurried across the desk and under the telephone.

“Hmmm,” said Ed, pouring another beer.

“Looks like some more at that business about transfer case lubes.” “Caddington” he cried, painting a bony finger at Caddington, “Caddington, find out for once and for all WHY the men have to use GO 90 in transfer cases instead of SAE 140, on a day like this. People say the GO 90 causes transfer case leakage. Now, Caddington is not an ambitious man.  If he were, he would have disappeared far thirteen days and thirteen nights, and returned with an article. Instead, he reached in his pocket, pulled out a grimy piece of paper labeled “Fargo Technical Bulletin #46G” and tossed it on the desk.

“Half-Mast said you’d ask, and there’s the answer”, he explained. Then he went back to sleep.

Well now, our Ed knows as well as you do that the reasons for using GO 90 instead of SAE 140 in transfer cases are mostly military. We don’t use any mare different varieties of lube in the army these days than we absolutely need; result, fewer kinds to supply, less shortages, everybody happier. And GO 90 is at least an acceptable substitute far SAEI40. But our expert has proof that GO 90 is better in transfer cases than SAE 140, because GO 90 is less likely to leak.

It’s all on account of the heat which SAE 140 generates when the vehicle is in operation. The gears of the transfer case have to do more work an the SAE 140 oil (because it’s a heavier oil), thus generating more heat in the oil. This lubricant usually warms up to a temperature of 235 to 260 degrees Fahrenheit, whereas GO 90 seldom gets above 190 to 210.

These higher temperatures have two results:

(1) The SAE 140 gets thinner us it gets hotter. By actual test, SAE 140 has the same viscosity at its operating temperature as GO 90 has at its operating temperature. Therefore, one will leak just as fast as the other if leakage is going to occur.

(2)More serious, the aver. heated SAE 140 will harden the oil seals, increasing the wear an the companion-flange hub, and thus actually cause leakage.

So. don’t be wishing for SAE 140, says our expert; be glad there’s none issued. Instead, if your vehicle is troubled with transfer-case leaks, try this:

(1) Check the lube level; maybe you have too much and the extra pressure is forcing the leaks. The level should be at the plug opening immediately after operation, or 1/2″ below the opening if the oil has had time to cool. Always check the vent in the transfer case to be sure it is open. This should be done each time the lube level is checked. If this vent is closed, leakage is bound to occur at the oil seals.

(2) Check the universal-joint companion flanges for up-and-down play in the bearings. If they are loose, remove the transfer case and get the bearings adjusted (you can’t get a proper adjustment while the case is still in the vehicle) .

(3) If it isn’t the bearings, remove the companion flanges and take a look at the hubs and ail seals. Replace any of either that are warn (treating new seals with ail to. soften the leather).

(4) If you have any doubt about the grade of lube in the transfer case, drain it out and install GO 90 far warm weather or GO 80 according to .the temperature chart as set up in the lube guide. Drain the transfer case should be done while it is hot, otherwise you won’t get all of the old oil out. If there is any question of dirt in the transfer case, it should be flushed with OE 10.

(5) Tighten the transfer-case mounting bolts.

Before starting your World War Two jeep, take a look at the US Army instructions from TM 9-803.  Still pretty good advice after about 60 or so years.

 

a. This inspection schedule is designed primarily as a check to see that the vehicle has not been tampered with or sabotaged since the After-operation Service was performed. Various combat conditions may have rendered the vehicle unsafe for operation, and it is the duty of the driver to determine whether or not the vehicle is in condition to carry out any mission to which it is  assigned. This operation will not be entirely omitted, even in extreme tactical situations.

b. Procedures. Before-operation Service consists of inspecting items listed below according to the procedure described, and correcting or reporting any deficiencies. Upon completion of the service, results should be reported promptly to the designated individual in authority.

(1) ITEM 1, TAMPERING AND DAMAGE. Examine exterior of vehicle, engine, wheels, brakes, and steering control for damage by falling debris, shell fire, sabotage, or collision. If wet, dry the ignition parts to ensure easy starting. Ed. Note: Of course in the modern era you aren’t likely to have most of these but if this is the first time you’ve driven this particularly jeep, it’s a good idea to eyeball everything carefully.

(2) ITEM 2, FIRE EXTINGUISHER. Be sure fire extinguisher is full, nozzle is clean, and mountings secure.  Ed. Note: The World War Two fire extinguisher used carbon tet is considered unsafe and obsolete today–you might invest in a modern fire extinguisher to keep on hand.

(3) ITEM 3, FUEL, OIL, AND WATER. Check fuel tank, crankcase, and radiator for leaks or tampering. Add fuel, oil, or water as needed. Have value of antifreeze checked. If, during period when antifreeze is used, it becomes necessary to replenish a considerable amount of water, report unusual losses.

(4) ITEM 4, ACCESSORIES AND DRIVES. Inspect carburetor, generator, regulator, cranking motor, and water pump for loose connections and security of mountings. Inspect carburetor and water pump for leaks.

(5) ITEM 6, LEAKS, GENERAL. Look on ground under vehicle for indications of fuel, oil, water, brake fluid, or gear oil leaks. Trace leaks to source, and correct or report to higher authority.

(6) ITEM 7, ENGINE WARM-UP. Start engine, observe cranking motor action, listen for unusual noise, and note cranking speed. Idle engine only fast enough to run smoothly. Proceed immediately with following services while engine is warming up.

(7) ITEM 8, CHOKE. As engine warms, push in choke as required for smooth operation, and to prevent oil dilution.

(8) ITEM 9, INSTRUMENTS.

(a) Fuel Gage. Fuel gage should indicate approximate amount of fuel in tank.

(b) Oil Pressure Gage. Normal oil pressure should not be below 10 with engine idling, and should range from 40 to 50 at running speeds (at normal operating temperature). If gage fails to register within 30 seconds, stop engine, and correct or report to higher authority.

(c) Temperature Indicator. Temperature should rise slowly during warm-up. Normal operating temperature range is 1600F to 1850 F.

(d) Ammeter. Ammeter should show high charge for short period after starting and positive (plus) reading above 12 to 15 miles per hour with lights and accessories off. Zero reading is normal with lights and accessories on.

(9) ITEM 10, HORN AND WINDSHIELD WIPERS. Sound horn, tactical situation permitting, for proper operation and tone. Check both wipers for secure attachment and normal full contact operation through full stroke.

(10) ITEM 11, GLASS AND REAR VIEW MIRROR. Clean windshield and rear view mirror and inspect for cracked, discolored, or broken glass. Adjust mirror.

(11) ITEM 12, LIGHTS AND REFLEICTORS. Try switches in each position and see if lights responds Lights and warning reflectors must be securely mounted, clean, and in good condition. Test foot control of headlight beams.

(12) ITEM.13, WHEEL AND FLANGE NUTS. Observe whether or not all wheel and flange nuts are present and tight.

(13) ITEM 14, TIRES. If time permits, test tires with gage, including spare; normal pressure is 35 pounds with tires cold. Inspect tread and carcass for cuts and bruises. Remove embedded objects from treads.

(14) ITEM 15, SPRINGS AND SUSPENSION. Inspect springs for sagged or broken leaves, shifted leaves, and loose or missing rebound clips.

(15) ITEM 16, STEERING LINKAGE. Examine steering gear case, connecting links, and pitman arm for security and good condition. Test steering adjustment, and free motion of steering wheel.

(16) ITEM 17, FENDERS AND BUMPERS. Examine fenders and bumpers for secure mounting and serviceable condition.

(17) ITEM 18, TOWING CONNECTIONS. Examine pintle hook for secure mounting and serviceable condition. Be sure pintle latches properly and locks securely.

(18) ITEM 19, BODY AND LOAD. Examine body and load (if any) for damage. Be sure there is a cap on front drain hole under fuel tank. See that rear drain hole cap is available in glove compartment.  CAUTION: Rear drain hole cap should be installed when about to pass through deep water.

(19) ITEM 20, DECONTAMINATOR. Examine decontaminator for full charge and secure mountings.

(20) ITEM 21, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT. See that tools and equipment are all present, properly stowed, and serviceable.

(21) ITEM 23, DRIVER’S PERMIT AND FORM 26. Driver must have his operator’s permit on his person. See that vehicle manuals, Lubrication Guide, Form No. 26 (accident report) and W.D. AGO Form No. 478 (MWO and Major Unit Assembly Replacement Record) are
present, legible, and properly stowed.

(22) ITEM 22, ENGINE OPERATION. Accelerate engine and observe for unusual noises indicating compression or exhaust leaks; worn, damaged, loose, and inadequately lubricated parts or misfiring.

(23) ITEM 25, DURING-OPERATION SERVICE. Begin the During operation Service immediately after the vehicle is put in motion.

 

WW2 Jill Cartoon Mug
front / back: front image back image

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WW2 Jill Cartoon Mug

Blonde WW2 Jill, wearing a red bathing suit and riding in a jeep.

 

$12.99 plus shipping
AVAILABILITY: In Stock, will ship in 2 business days

Product Number: 97144798 Order TOLL FREE (US) by calling the number at left and giving the operator the production number OR just click the link to order on-line!

Product Information
The perfect size for your favorite morning beverage or late night brew. Large, easy-grip handle. Treat yourself or give as a gift to someone special.
  • Measures 3.75″ tall, 3″ diameter
  • Dishwasher and microwave safe

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