Drawing from the MB Bestop full enclosure kit.

Recently I found the installation instructions for the MB Bestop kit. As you can see in the drawing you had to drill some holes in the jeep tub, top-bow and windshield frame.

While not historically accurate, my jeeps’ top has come in handy and doesn’t look too bad. As a full enclosure it is very simple to setup up after the first installation. And getting into and out of the enclosure is very easy compared to the full zippered doors of the original top.

my jeep full enclosure, drivers' side view.
The Bestop full enclosure on my jeep.

Bestop is a trademark of Bestop® Inc., and can be found at www.bestop.com but before you go look they don’t make this top any longer.  It’s too bad because at the time I bought it in 1983 it was bargain.  Complete top minus the original bows was only about $250.  This as compared to a more original canvas version that would have cost $1000.  I have doubts that the canvas version would have weathered well after twenty some years as the Bestop has.

A girl and a WW2 Ford GPW (jeep)A girl and a WW2 Ford GPW (jeep)

 If you are looking for the “correct” color of lustreless (also spelled lusterless), olive drab paint then you need not look any further than TM9 Ordnance Products, LLC.  The owner has done considerable research into the color.  He has observed that there were several variations of lustreless, olive drab.  It’s not that he is saying there were multiple versions of lustreless, olive drab but rather the resultant finish has been observed with differences.  On his site he has a picture of two Dodge ambulances photographed during WW2.  They are obviously two different hues of OD.

Why are there different hues of Lustreless, Olive Drab when there was only ONE paint? Variation of hue has often been a cantankerous problem but it is fully explained away but WW2 manuals!

An explanation for the color variance in parts or vehicles was found in FM 5-20H, July 1944, entitled,”Camouflage Materials and Manufacturing Techniques”. Originals were printed with color charts and photos. The example found was sadly a black and white copy.

From the above referenced manual, Section 1. Paragraph 5, PAINTS. (e). …”In spite of color standardization, there is considerable variation in hue between lots and between the products of different manufacturers.” So there you go. A sane and written (in the period under discussion) explanation of why we find different “hues” of lustreless olive drab.

So you have a choice of buying paint sold by most military vehicle parts sellers that isn’t close to original colors but the formula paints like those in the 1940s or now you purchase a great paint from TM9!  They offer lustreless olive drab in a formula similar to what was used in WW2.  In other words a non-catalyst paint.  This is the THE paint we have all been waiting for.

Is your 1/4-ton truck in order?  Find out below...

Is your 1/4-ton truck in order? Find out below...

seat tool locker drawingFrom Army Motors, Volume 4, page 44, April 1944.

As of 1 Apr 44, the items listed in the graphic above where the options to have. Of interest is the rifle rack/brackets which was issued under TB 1800-2. First mention of the rack appeared on page 205 of the October 42 Army Motors with “New Rifle bracket” “It replaces the old leather boot-it’s universal, it handles any rifle.” Based on these publications it would appear that the rifle rack and brackets were available for issue for vehicles that did not come with them from the factory, including jeeps.Ord 9 SNL G-503 15 Feb 45 on page 209 under “Gun Holders” the following parts are listed:

  • WO-A-11581 (Bracket, support, rifle holder to windshield, left, assembly)
  • WO-A-11584 (Bracket, support, rifle holder to windshield, right, assembly)
A modern mobile army needs vehicles to move about the field.

A modern mobile army needs vehicles to move about the field.

During WW2 the US Army switched from a cumbersome round can to a rectangular can that is still seeing use today.

Comparison of the early gas can vs. the later improved can.

Private Kirkland drives Col. Thomas M. Monroe, commanding, 15th Infantry.

Notice the rectangle with the diagonal lines? I believe this is unit disignator. I haven’t really found anything definitive in this regard…so it’s still just a guess but other pictures in the set sport different “squares”.

Also notice the rectangle above the square. 15 HQ 13.


Now you may have thought there was something goobered up or censored in the first picture near the drivers front fender. But as you can see it’s not. Those are obviously slots that have been either bolted or welded. And that is a sign of sorts. It appears to be white on top and another color of some sort below. Is this yet another unit indicator? I have no idea.

You Bantam guys must already know about the other features. I never realized the safety strap was mounted on the outside…or is this a mod? Also on the hood what the heck is the round/raised object about 2 or so inches back from the edge of the hood…about center? Notice the wheels? They sure look shiny, too. Sure would like to have the Colonel’s bantam.


The original black and white photo.

Picture Sources: Ft Lewis Sentinel, 1941

Now that Fall is really here and for many ol’ man Winter is knocking at the door–it’s time to change that oil.  Most folks don’t run a straight single weight oil these days like 30 weight.  I personally use 10w30 as this matches both ends of the spectrum recommended by the original manufacturers–Willys and Ford.  Stay away from using heavier oils, it isn’t really necessary.  Studies have shown that using a lube with a heavier than necessary viscosity actually increases wear.  So the old saw about using say 20w50 in a tired engine is not really a good idea.  That already worn engine will wear even faster. 

 

Another thing to be on the lookout for is something that looks like gray scum.  This is moisture usually from condensation in the engine that mixes with the oil.  This condition occurs when the engine isn’t run long enough to “cook off” the condensation.  It may look scary but it is normal.  Just make sure to run the engine long enough to cook off  the moisture.  A short drive of 15 – 30 minutes should be enough.

All you trick or treaters have a great and safe evening.  When you aren’t thinking about candy, think about your WW2 army trucks and check out our items.

 

Oh, and Army Jill sends a Happy Halloween to you as well!  As we begin to roll in to the holiday seasons, think about what you might like to give as a gift to a special loved one.  Especially those that are crazy about WW2 Willys and Fords and other historical military vehicles of that era.  We have a lot of useful items–books, t-shirts, mugs, etc.  Check it out!

 1/4-ton vehicles appeared during WW2 with what has become called “invasion stars”. This is a star within a circle band. Sometimes the points of the star were cut out and some times not…we can customize the registration number for you at no additional cost!

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