New brakes on WW2 jeep attributed to Ernie Pyle

Ernie Pyle, the famous WW2 war-time correspondent  was credited by Delmar G. Roos, engineering vice president of Willys-Overland for the internal expanding parking brake.  Ernie had written about the Willys jeep in April 1943 that, “I don’t think we could continue the war without the jeep.”  He went on to say the jeep needed a new parking brake because the then current brake was useless.  He said that except for the brake, “the jeep is a divine instrument of wartime locomotion.”  An article appeared in the St. Petersburg Times - Apr 21, 1944 entitled, “Ernie Pyle Credited For New Brake On Army Jeeps.”

 

Bantam wrong about post-war prospects for jeep

The American Bantam Car Company’s “jeep” under Army test in 1940. (Photo courtesy of Wesley M Phillippi.)

The president of the company that built the prototype and the very first vehicles that eventually would become known as the “jeep” predicted the wrong future.  In an article from the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette - Oct 23, 1944 found through the Google search tool. http://tinyurl.com/fennwrong

Fenn stated that the jeep then in production by Willys Overland and Ford would not make a successful civilian vehicle after the war.  The “purely military” characteristics would “hamper its postwar future as a civilian car.”  Mr. Fenn stated that there were no plans for American Bantam Car Company to produces “jeeps” after the war.

Hindsight is most often 20-20 and Mr. Fenn was proved wrong.  The Jeep as produced by Willys-Overland was a success.  Versions of the Jeep (now owned by Chrsyler LLC) have been in production since 1941.  Not bad for a vehicle that would be “hampered” in usefulness to civilians after the war.

 

Steering knuckles for the WW2 jeep

The joint is covered in TM 9-1803B (it covers all three used by the jeep during the war), so it’s not overly difficult to work on these….with patience.

What goes into the knuckle?

The manual and the lubrication guide says to use CG Grease. This is grease, general purpose either No. 1 for temps over 32F or No. 0 for temps below 32F. This is more or less the same grease you would use for your wheel bearings (except that calls for No. 2 grease).

I have the the Rzeppa knuckles and these are not all that difficult to take apart and clean and then put back together (though it is a puzzle and I would not want to have to do this blindfolded).

When you take apart the knuckle do not reuse the old seal. They are not that expensive and it is relatively easy to install.

Now there are others that would have you put a liquid or semi-liquid in the axles. I’m not sure why. Putting grease in and on the knuckles have never left them “dry” in the 26 years I’ve had my jeep…and I have taken the axle apart way too many times. These folks swear by “knuckle pudding”, you just mix it up some grease and some oil, blend till smooth yet liquid and then all you have to do is squirt this stuff in like it was a differential. I personally trust the original manufacturer instructions….and for 26 years I have never had a leak….well, from the steering knuckles anyway!

In the differentials use what is specified by the manufacturer. All of the parts (transmission, transfer case and differentials) take SAE 90 (32F and above), or SAE 80 (32F to 0F) or SAE 70 (below 0F). Here I have compromised and usually go with a “mixed” blend rated as 80w90. You can also find 75w90 but I don’t many would need that. And of course at places like NAPA you can find straight 90. Being in the UK, I doubt naming a brand here will do you much good. It should be easy to purchase any lube that meets a generally accepted standard.

But do stay away from things like 80w140 as this may help your components to generate excessive heat and lead to failure. I believe this is what I was running (Before I knew better) when my T-84J suffered major tooth failure on the cluster gear.

If the knuckle is a Rzeppa, I know for certain it will not just come apart in your hands — unless maybe it is damaged. I do the work generally by myself so I don’t have hands three, four or five to pitch in.

Read the manual, read the manual then read the manual…ask questions. Do it! You will be surprised at how easy this is. I have taken apart the entire knuckle and king pin assemblies and installed all new parts and set the tension, etc. It took me awhile but wasn’t all that difficult.

 

Winter reading list for the WW2 MB/GPW

Which book to buy depends on what you want to do or are able to do.  The most common book is the TM 9-803, 9-1803A and B, if you are going to be doing maintenance and repairs yourself this is certainly the one to get.

You might also consider the electronic version as well! It is so very important to own these manuals because they tell you the basics of what you need to know. What grade oil to use? How do you service the brakes?

If you are not mechanically inclined or understand the wartime technologies you might be interested in the following two books:

Army Jill recommends that if you don’t know how to polarize your generator or have questions on how to trouble shoot various parts o

f your vehicle that you consider purchasing:

Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Vehicles, Volume 1 (Garage Edition)
Synopsis: The GARAGE version comes with a spiral wire binding so that the book can lay flat! Automotive Trouble Shooting For World War Two Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 1, is a useful manual for anyone. Do you know what to do when the cranking motor will not crank the engine? Engine fails to start? No spark? Misfiring at high speeds or under full load? Problems with your battery or battery cables? Do you know how to adjust your breaker points? Inspect the coil? Do you know how to polarize the generator? Use a jump wire to test your main light switch? Adjust your headlights? Trouble shoot your carburetor or fuel pump? All these and much more are covered. Put a copy in your truck for those little roadside emergencies!

and

Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 2 (Garage Edition)
Synopsis: Automotive Trouble Shooting For World War Two Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 2, is a useful manual for anyone and it takes off where volume one ended! Learn about the engine oil system. Do you know what to look for when rebuilding a block? Problems with valves? Find out how to trouble shoot and adjust the valves for wheeled vehicles. Problems with the clutch rattling? Check this manual out! Worried about your transmission or transfer case making noises? Check out the trouble shooting section. Any noises coming from your propeller shafts, universal joints or axles? Its discussed here. Trouble shooting the wheels, hubs, and rims? Chassis. Steering. Do you have brake problems, including Hydro-vac brakes? Its all here and much more. Put a copy in your WW2 truck for those little roadside emergencies!Originally produced by the US Govt, Ordnance School, Aberdeen Proving Ground, August, 1945.Edited by Robert Notman

Buy the parts book ‘Ordnance Catalog SNL – G503, 1944’. There are several other WW2 parts books available but that one is a good start. Why do you need this one? Well, it contains a lot of pictures of the parts so that you can see either what you need to fix. Sometimes it is helpful in figuring out how the pieces go back together! See here for more!

‘All American Wonder” vol I & II and this will give you the tear down and build up sequences. These were the granddaddy books of the jeep restoration “movement”. Ray Cowdery did us all a huge service for putting this information together. When some of us started on are jeeps these were not available and when they become available it was like manna from heaven.

Ren’s book, The WWII Jeep Guidebook is likely the best book to have prior to either buying the jeep (not your case of course) or beginning a restoration. While the AA1 2 and even 3 are wonderful books, I wouldn’t call them restoration guides. More like restoration hints complete with wonderful gems of information and landmines! Forget not having your oil filter connected, bad advice.

You can always ask a lot of questions on the G503.com but you really need some basic manuals to fully understand the jeep. Here is some additional advice based on Iowa’s (a G503 reader/poster) comments: Jeep Advice.

(Prices above, subject to change)

 

What exactly were the “early” jeeps before they were jeeps?

Pilots – BRC (”1″), Pygmy, Budd and Quad.  These were models required to be tested and accepted prior to production of the contracted order. The Budd was not accepted nor tested by the US Army and was returned to Ford

Engineering Models or Educational Order – BRC-60s.  An educational order was used to test the merit of the proposed product and to test the ability of the contractor to deliver the contracted item.

Prototypes – BRC-40, GP and MA (orders that started with 1500 each for experimentation and further development – order totalled more than 1500 as requirements increased as the war in Europe progressed.). These were models “rushed” into production and widely tested.

Above, is pictured a Bantam BRC-40 (one of the “1500″).

Above is pictured the Ford GP (one of the “1500″)

Willys-Overland MA, pictured above (one of “1500″)

Standardized – MB/GPW (Willys awarded the contract for the first 16,000 “standardized” 1/4-tons and subsequently the QMC negotiated with Ford to be an alternate supplier). The US Army wanted to standardized on one vehicle, reducing the logistical support obligations to one vehicle instead of three very different vehicles.

Postwar picture of one of the thousands of 1/4-tons built by Ford.  It is a GPW built under license by Ford to Willys specifications.  Willys-Overland  had the primary contract and built the majority of 1/4-tons (Model MB) for the war.

In my example, as far as I know only the BRC and Pygmy were “accepted” and led to further production under contract. Well, this is not exactly true–Willys submitted the Quad in Nov 1940 and according to Senate testimony it failed…but because of weight (no mention of engine failures or requiring three engines here). The Willys “pilot” was not accepted until June or July 1941! It was not fully tested according to testimony but was examined.

We see an example of “pilot” in the contract language I listed earlier. Interesting enough, the testimony by Mr. Fenn (Pres of American Bantam Car Co.) on August 6, 1941 indicated he built 70 pilot models! During the hearing those 70 are also referred to as an “educational order”.
Further testimony during the Senate hearings from a Col Van Deusen indicates at least the QMC position. The orders (1500) from Bantam, Ford and Willys were “test purposes”. Originally, it was supposed to be 500 from each supplier. “The 1,500 cars were to be as experimental development type for service tests, quantity tests in service…” A Mr. Fulton on the committee, “And that was because you wanted to experiment further before standardizing your specifications?”. Van Deusen, “That is true.” This really sounds like “prototype” to me.

 

Should you use silicone or regular brake fluid?

The subject of using silicone versus regular brake fluid comes up several times a year among old vehicle collectors.

I would never use silicone in my jeep.

Regular brake fluid can be a good paint remover. Of course, if you plan ahead for a spill it isn’t that big a deal. But is silicone brake fluid the be all, end all cure for poor paint surfaces and poor maintenance technique? Consider that while silicone will not remove paint, it can lead to what is called “cupping” where paint will not adhere to the surface being painted. So it could be a concern if you have to do any touchups at a later time.

How to determine if you have silicone or glycol fluid? “To determine if an unknown sample is glycol or silicone fluid, put some in a glass jar. Add water a drop at a time. Glycol fluid will dissolve in water with slight milkiness, but silicone fluid will form two distinct layers, with water on the bottom. Silicone stays clean and clear in a brake system, but old glycol looks rusty after years of use. The purple dye transfers from silicone to glycol fluid if you mix them together.”

This guy has a pretty good site and it seems fairly balanced in the glycol vs. silicone discussion.

Which to use? Appears to settle upon a few factors:

1. If your preventive maintenance skills are lax then the use of silicone is likely your best bet. If you are capable of changing your brake fluid every couple of years then perhaps glycol is best for you.

2. If you can’t fill the master cylinder without spilling it all over your painted surface then perhaps silicone is the way to go. However, be forewared that while silicone doesn’t eat paint it keeps it from adhering to the surface and leads to “cupping”.

3. If you have more money then time then silicone is perhaps best for you. In most places the same quantity of silicone is several times the cost of glycol. But on the flip side you will need to replace your glycol several more times than silicone.

4. Do you drive your jeep thru water, wet roads when it rains? The jeeps’, like many brake systems are open to the atmosphere. Glycol is designed to absorb moisture and has inhibitors designed to reduce corrosion. Silicone is not designed to absorbe water.  Moisture will pool in silicone and can lead to corrosion.

5. Spongy feeling. Silicone has a higher compressability then glycol which can lead to a spongy brake pedal sensation. Silicone has a slower pour rate (higher viscosity) than glycol. This may explain why it can be difficult to bleed the air from silicone equipped brakes. Once air is mixed into silicone (bubbles) it can take a long while to bleed it out.

Check out these articles:
http://www.adlersantiqueautos.com/articles/brake1.html http://www.adlersantiqueautos.com/articles/brake2.html

Visit http://www.42fordgpw.com/ 173+ megabytes of jeep & related info.

 

What is a jeep?

There’s a book by Paul Dickson, “War Slang” that says the jeep is “1, a small, low, khaki-colored car in general use in the Army. 2, a rookie; a recruit.OR you could go with his quote from another source, San Francisco Call-Bulletin, November 22, 1941 ” Do you know why those swift little army cars are called ‘jeeps’? It’s Model G-P produced by that automobile manufacturer–and G-P easily becomes ‘jeep’.” In 1941 Ford was producing a vehicle for the Army that was a model GP.

The unfortunate thing is that the War Slang book does not mention the jeep term being used during WWI or the inter-war period.

 

The WW2 Jeep: Cleaning the oil system

It might be a bit too cold to change the oil on your jeep right now but it won’t be long when you will need to climb under the jeep and turn some wrenches and get that oil changed.

I just hate it when the oil is dirty. Don't you?

Occasionally it will be necessary to flush the oil system because of an accumulation of sludge or other foreign material.

Drain the oil from the system after warming the engine to normal operating temperature. Be sure to use CAUTION as the oil will be HOT.

Fill the oil pan to half the indicated level with light engine oil.

Start the engine and allow it to warm up thoroughly. This will allow the light oil to clean the system. Watch the oil pressure gage, and stop the engine at the slightest sign of low oil pressure. This may be caused by a clogged strainer.

When the engine is thoroughly warmed, turn off the engine and drain the oil.

Fill to the proper level with the correct engine oil.

If the oil filter has a replaceable filter element, inspect it and replace if necessary.

Caution: These are recommendations from WW2, always consider if this practice is considered safe for you or your equipment for proceeding. If you follow these instructions I would use extreme caution and watch closely the oil pressure gauge. I would also using 10w oil as my “cleaner” and I would fill it till it was at the full mark instead of half. The sump pickup in a jeep may not pickup the oil if it is only half full. I suggest always changing the oil filter when changing the oil. But I wouldn’t change the filter until after the cleaning. Again, exercise caution.

 

Pinups and a WW2 jeep

Pinups and military vehicles seem to go together like apple pie and ice cream.  Perhaps the most notorious of pinups is Bettie Page.  While our primary interest is in all things WW2, you just about can’t help but love Bettie.  The picture at left is of a 7 inch painted statue of Bettie Page complete with her trademark banks, sheer nylons and shapely figure. This is considered a ”limited edition” and may sell out quickly. The price is $59.95 plus shipping.  You can order by clicking on the picture or by calling 800.225.5575 and asking for product  0061160.

I don’t know anyone who doesn’t love WW2 jeeps.  Now riding in them for long periods of time might be something else.  I sure love mine.  I also collect model and toy jeeps.  At left is pictured a really cool jeep and trailer from the Airborne. Beautifully detailed and painted by hand, this 1/30 scale, polystone model of a jeep and trailer – which have just landed during Operation Market Garden – features free rolling wheels, authentic U.S. markings, two metal paratrooper figures (a driver and a gunner manning a Bren gun), supplies, and more. Measures approximately 8¾” long and arrives ready to add to a diorama or to present as a standalone display! You can order by clicking on the picture at left or by calling the number above and giving the operator product number 0093056. The price is $139 plus shipping.

I’m an affiliate of Military Issue and present some of their products from time to time.

 

Got a rattling clutch in your WW2 vehicle?

[1] A rattling sound, apparently originating in the clutch, may be caused if the clutch-pedal pull-back spring is disconnected. Connect the spring, and check to see if the rattling is eliminated.
[2] If rattling continues it may due to weak pressure-plate retracting springs or excessive clearance between driving lugs and cover. The clutch assembly must be replaced.

Other trouble shooting information and tips can be found in the following two volumes:

Automotive Trouble Shooting For World War Two Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 1,The GARAGE version with a spiral wire binding so that the book can lay flat! Automotive Trouble Shooting For World War Two Wheeled Vehicles,Volume 1, is a useful manual for anyone. Do you know what to do when the cranking motor will not crank the engine? Engine fails to start? No spark? Misfiring at high speeds or under full load? Problems with your battery or battery cables? Do you know how to adjust your breaker points? Inspect the coil? Do you know how to polarize the generator? Use a jump wire to test your main light switch? Adjust your headlights? Trouble shoot your carburetor or fuel pump? All these and much more are covered. Put a copy in your truck for those little roadside emergencies! Originally produced by the US Gov’t, Ordnance School, Aberdeen Proving Ground, August, 1945. Edited by Robert Notman. Product Number: 16997587

Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Vehicles (Gar)(Paperback)$24.95. Also available from Amazon.com and other fine bookstores!

Automotive Trouble Shooting For World War Two Wheeled Vehicles, Volume 2, is a useful manual for anyone and it takes off where volume one ended! Learn about the engine oil system. Do you know what to look for when rebuilding a block? Problems with valves? Find out how to trouble shoot and adjust the valves for wheeled vehicles. Problems with the clutch rattling? Check this manual out! Worried about your transmission or transfer case making noises? Check out the trouble shooting section. Any noises coming from your propeller shafts, universal joints or axles? Its discussed here. Trouble shooting the wheels, hubs, and rims? Chassis. Steering. Do you have brake problems, including Hydrovac brakes? Its all here and much more. Put a copy in your WW2 truck for those little roadside emergencies! Originally produced by the US Gov’t, Ordnance School, Aberdeen Proving Ground, August, 1945.Edited by Robert Notman. Product Number: 57304889

Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Veh 2(Paperback)$24.95

To order on line click the product number above OR call TOLLFREE (US) at 877.809.1659 and give the operator the product number. Ships worldwide.